Koh-i-Noor

On the scene since 1964, this Charing Cross curry house caters for groups and buffet dining, with an à la carte menu to boot.

The 2019/20 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

If a picture dictionary had a listing for 'classic British curry house', it'd look just like the Koh-i-Noor. And it’s probably fundamentally unchanged since it first opened in the 1960s (it’s moved address a bit over the decades). Indian colours and patterns decorate the vast dining area, while traditional pictures peep out from inside carved wooden insets. It's vintage in a comforting way, like watching your favourite film again on a Sunday afternoon. Biryani, dopiaza, masala and tikkas from the tandoor – they're all offered by a menu that promises pleasurable familiarity. A nod to modernity is the great-for-sharing thali, constituting a small plates option, which is a great way to work in a few different choices. Lamb karahi is a standout among the meat curries, leaving a pleasing chilli tingle in its wake. And though it may seem to lack options for adventure, there are a few unusual dishes hidden among the specialities section, from the home-style keema allu to sweet and sour Manchurian.