Loon Fung

Cantonese restaurant brimming with old-style charm and a talent for seafood.

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A table under the precarious-looking bamboo cane ceiling can make first impressions of Loon Fung a little uncertain. But there’s no need to feel nervous – the restaurant’s been welcoming diners in Canonmills since 1972 and has gained a reputation for dishing up some of the city’s best Cantonese food. And it’s worth walking the extra mile from town to get there, which many do, as the place is frequently fully booked with a range of diners all fond of the food, atmosphere and friendly service. Fish and seafood take the helm on the menu, with hongshao yu – braised fish – demonstrating a more authentic offering while oysters, squid and scallops are available too. The Cantonese steamed duck is tenderly pink in the middle and the crisp skin has a distinctively spicy edge. Some dishes are fairly sugar heavy, yet still enjoyable if served alongside noodles or rice. Considering the number of Asian restaurants in Edinburgh that have come and gone over the years, Loon Fung (despite its alarming bamboo shards) is probably the safest bet for good Cantonese food in the capital.

• High point: Banquet menus offer good variety
• Low point: The walk home
• Notable dish: Baked crabs in ginger sauce