Mussel Inn

A city-centre staple where fair pricing and attention to detail, especially on sourcing, continues to pay off.

The 2019/20 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

For a restaurant in the heart of tourist central to reach its third decade of operation requires something akin to a Faustian pact, or witchcraft at the very least. The main dining area is brightly lit with large prints on the wall and windows looking out onto Rose Street. Given the name, it’s no surprise to see a number of crustacean options on the menu but there’s a solid range of alternatives and also a specials board beside the pass. Pan-fried marinated squid in Cajun spices, served on sliced plum tomatoes, is a simple but well-executed starter, a thin circle of fragrant basil oil provoking thoughts of insalata caprese. Moroccan mussels with chilli, garlic, ginger and cumin offer quite a kick, especially when the sauce is soaked up using the dangerously moreish bread. Chargrilled sea bass, skin crisped beautifully, is accompanied by sautéed butter beans, sweetcorn and chorizo; a love letter to Mediterranean cooking. The dessert list is relatively short, the standout offering being a delightful pear and cinnamon tart. The white-leaning wine list offers an impressive range by the glass and higher end bottles are competitively priced.