The Greek Golden Kebab
This review is taken from the 2013 edition.
This is the sort of place people imagine when they think of a Greek restaurant. All the favourites are on the menu, while rustic bric-a-brac and cozy seating go some way to reaffirming the ‘old-fashioned neighbourhood restaurant’ vibe – which is exactly what it is, and a quite fantastic one at that. After more than 40 years in the Southside, their versions of classics taste like they’ve been refined and perfected. Keftedes (lamb meatballs) are seared crispy but soft and crumbly within, a technique that adds texture and enhances the juicy lamb. Moussaka’s cheese topping is light and airy, the aubergine sweet and creamy – showing how comforting and tasty the dish can be. Best of all is the stifado, a casserole of slowly cooked and tender beef with the sharpness of vinegar and a sweet, gutsy hit of cloves. This place knows what it’s doing. Everything is full of flavour and served with a massive smile on its face. There are plans to move across the road into a larger site allowing more covers, more legroom and longer opening hours.
- High point: Top-notch, old-school Greek food
- Low point: It's very cramped
- Provides: Gluten-free options, Children's portions
- Music on stereo: Traditional Greek music
- Capacity: 28
- Largest group: 28
- Open since: 1972
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 3
- House wine: £13.95 (1l) per bottle