Two Fat Ladies
- Telephone 0141 339 1944
- Food served Wed/Thu noon–3pm, 5.30–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–3pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 1pm–9pm. Closed Mon/Tue.
- Pre-theatre times Wed–Sun 5.30–6.15pm
- Average price £15.95 (set lunch); £28 (evening meal)
- Pre-theatre price £15.95
- Website www.twofatladiesrestaurant.com
Friendly neighbourhood West End fish restaurant with a distinctly European vibe.
The original Two Fat Ladies (at number 88, geddit?) is a wonderful retreat for those who want to pretend we are still European. The wrought iron window grille and seabed-themed gilt frieze would not look out of place in Barcelona and the narrow internal space, hung with wall paintings, feels very Parisian. Similarly, the refreshingly unfussy fish dishes could be served in a Mediterranean taverna; fish fillets, such as the three featured on the daily fish platter, are left largely unadorned, pan-fried and served with a sizeable hunk of lemon and a bowl of chunky seasonal veggies. By contrast, cheery front-of-house staff are pure dead Scottish, and all the better for it. Even first-time diners are likely to be welcomed like old friends, encouraged to choose their own table or sample a recommended wine. Overall the kitchen doesn’t serve up many surprises with competent staples such as Cullen skink, smoked salmon with horseradish, and scallops with black pudding. The puddings, on the other hand, are wedding-catalogue-pretty and add a vibrant flourish to finish.
- High point: Great front-of-house vibe
- Low point: Menu a little unambitious
- Notable dish: Fish platter
The long-standing original branch of the Two Fat Ladies seafood restaurant group is easy to miss on Dumbarton Road, squeezed into the row of shops (at number 88, naturally) between the bottom of Byres Road and Church Street behind a black façade. Laid-out effectively back-to-front, with the open kitchen beside the door as you enter, there are no tables in the window to tempt in walk-ups. But it has an immersive, hidden-away feel about it. Relaxed and comfortable, too, between dark décor and soft seats and fitted sofas, with bright cushions and a gold-painted under-the-sea frieze wrapping around the walls for splashes of colour. Try the Cullen skink for a starter – a dish no Scottish fish restaurant worth its salt should fail to do well, Two Fat Ladies’ is full of texture and flavour. A main course of seared West Coast scallops with carrot jam, crispy kale and Stornoway black pudding proves a little less than the sum of its parts, but the melt-in-the-mouth foil-wrapped oven-baked salmon with lemon, lime and paprika and sour cream is a winning dish. For dessert don’t overlook the ginger and dark chocolate cheesecake, served ringed by a drizzle of sticky stem ginger syrup. Service is fast and friendly. You’ll have little hesitation coming back.
- Provides: Gluten-free options, Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu, Post-theatre menu, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: Jazz, blues and soul mix
- Capacity: 30
- Largest group: 30
- Open since: 1989
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 5
- House wine: £17.95 per bottle
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