Rogano

Glasgow's oldest restaurant and an art deco haven ideal for cocktail decadence

The 2017 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

Established in 1935, Rogano is Glasgow’s oldest restaurant and it is truly a wonder for that reason. Having been modelled internally on the Queen Mary, it offers the city pure art deco decadence. Sitting at the bar, and supping on a Bellini cocktail, with Louis Jordan singing double negatives about poultry in the background, things are pretty darn swell. But elsewhere there is a touch of faded grandeur about the place. The restaurant seems a little unloved – tables are placed a bit awkwardly and the vintage toilets seem a bit more Cal Mac than Cunard. The food has ebbed a bit, too, and is a little inconsistent. On the one hand the set lunch/early evening menu changes each week, offering plenty of choice, and brimming with skills and flavour; and the classic Rogano fish soup is a delight. On the other hand, the Taste Of Rogano menu at £45 lacks the kind of flourishes it deserves at the price. Cheery staff do a great job though – perhaps it’s just that the outstanding seafood elsewhere in the city makes this old dame look a little tired.

• High point: Ocean-going elegance
• Low point: Won’t float everyone’s boat
• Notable dish: Rogano fish soup

Listed in the Glasgow Larder – order a print copy (free + p&p).