Rogano

An Art Deco institution serving French seafood classics in a stylish 1930s setting.

The 2019/20 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

A space that’s seemingly stayed the same since the days of George V, you shouldn’t need to be told that this is a Glasgow institution par excellence. Rogano delights in doing things exactly the way they once were, from the classic cocktail bar and retro Art Deco interior, to the seafood platters and champagne on ice. Share some oysters to kick things off, or go for a few starters – langoustines in a green herb butter, or scallops with braised fennel, rock samphire, saffron potatoes and an apple gel. Mains don’t deviate too much from the traditional either. Sole meunière is served with a rich, caramelised lick of brown butter, the fish deliciously tenderised – a plate destined to be left with only bones. Or switch it up somewhat with Monkfish, curly kale and a turmeric yellow sauce (or the poshest and nicest chip shop curry sauce you’ve ever had). There’s a fine selection of sides, wines, cocktails and desserts, too. Service is the definition of attentive – black aprons, white shirts and starched linen. Just don’t expect it to change.

Listed in the Glasgow Larder – order a print copy (free + p&p).