Taste Test - Take-away margherita pizzas

  • The List
  • 19 June 2008
Margherita pizzas

From top left to bottom right: The Italian Kitchen, Domino's, Di Maggio's, La Favorita, Papa John's and Mamma's

The Italian Kitchen ••••

64 Ingram Street, Glasgow, 0141 572 1472, www.italian-kitchen.co.uk Takeaway only. Pizza Margherita £6.95
Pizza is a simple thing, so getting the basics right is important. This one has a nicely chewy but crusty thin base with some charcoal notes thanks to the stone oven it was cooked in. The tomato, cheese and basil weren't plentiful but they were decent quality and the tomato sugo was herby.

Domino's ••••

Various outlets, www.dominos.co.uk Delivery available. Original Cheese and Tomato £6.99
A uniformly round pizza with a thin coating of grated cheese on top rather than chunky slices of better quality mozzarella. The base is a bit more bread-like here and the tomato sauce surprisingly strong in flavour. However, all in all it is a pleasant pizza, nicely balanced in ingredients, taste and texture.

Di Maggio's ••

Various outlets in and around Glasgow, 0800 0407800, www.dimaggios.co.uk Delivery available. Margherita £5.45
This one looks promising enough, but turns out to be fairly underwhelming. There's a slight staleness to the base and the cheese on top is springy and flavourless. A bit light on tomato too. It seems to be crying out for extra toppings but a good margherita should stand up on its own.

La Favorita •••••

325–331 Leith Walk, Edinburgh, 0131 554 2430, www.la-favorita.com Delivery available. Margherita £7
All the hallmarks of a true Neapolitan pizza. This features the thinnest of chewy bases, cooked fast and hot in a proper wood-fired oven, with minimal ingredients on top, but somehow they prove just the right amount, with a smokey taste of tomato, cheese and basil in each bite. You can instantly tell the ingredients are good quality.

Papa John's •••

Various locations, www.papajohns.co.uk Delivery available. Cheese & Tomato £6.99
As you might expect of a chain, this one feels as if it has been robustly engineered rather than created with any flair. Satisfying enough, it's more American in style: a crispy rather than chewy base and a bit too heavy on the cheese, with sweet tomato sauce. Again, cries out for extra toppings: not a good sign.

Mamma's ••

30 Grassmarket & 139 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh, 0131 229 7008, www.mammas.co.uk Delivery available. Cheese & Tomato £4.15
Mid-way between an Italian and an American pizza in style, this is left a bit in no-man's land, lacking a real sense of conviction. The base was just a bit too regular (uniformity doesn't become a pizza), and while there was a nice natural flavour to the tomato sauce the cheese was a bit too plasticky.

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