Albert & Michel Roux Jr at Crossbasket Castle
Albert Roux teams up with son Michel Jr to tantalise finediners on Glasgow's outskirts
There are no subsidies in the culinary arts. Every restaurant depends on private patronage to survive – one pretty compelling reason why the industry needs to keep producing top-notch chefs. Some of the credit for the UK's credentials in this are due to the Roux family, who, in the form of a partnership between Albert Roux and Michel Roux Jr, are now in evidence on Glasgow's outskirts. It's the second venue in Scotland for the pairing, while father Albert has five Chez Roux operations already. Crossbasket is a noble setting in which to showcase the skills of this high-calibre stable.
Head chef Mike Mathieson, who has worked alongside the family for years, has set the bar very high with a taster menu that changes daily. The seven course journey opens with canapés in the bar and ends with petits fours on the balcony overlooking the Calder Valley. In between are some perfectly executed French classics such as a labour-intensive lobster bisque, dishes that showcase Scotland's larder (rack of Borders lamb) and exhilarating and joyful combinations (treacle-cured salmon in a liquorice consommé served under a smoke-filled cloche) served in the ornate dining room. Of course it comes at a price – but when you consider that more than 30, sometimes highly complex, elements are required, it feels like an art form well worth supporting.
Albert & Michel Roux Jr at Crossbasket Castle, Crossbasket Estate, Glasgow, 01698 829461, £30 (3 course set lunch) / £67 (7 course set dinner).