Side Dishes (28 February 2008)

News to nibble on

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Dave Ramsden

Other noteable comebacks include Dave Ramsden, the man behind the ever-colourful and much-lamented ventures (fitz)Henry and Rogue, who is planning to open a restaurant-bar called The Dogs in March. It will be located on Hanover Street in the premises previously occupied by the Tijuana Yacht Club, which closed at the end of last year following the sudden death of proprietor Yatz Borzecki. The menu promises dishes such as big wholesome soups, terrines, ‘house’ pies, sustainable fish, beef skirt and shoulder of lamb. In typical style, Ramsden assures us that ‘Edinburgh has nothing quite like it at the moment.’

Forget the US Presidential primaries, the place to look for comeback kids is the Glasgow and Edinburgh restaurant scene. First there’s Pierre Levicky, the culinary maverick who created Pierre Victoire in Edinburgh 20 years ago. The chain became the epitome of boom to bust but he’s back in the capital with Chez Pierre at 18 Eyre Place, Canonmills (0131 556 0006). The menu features ‘tiny playful dishes’ with plenty of seafood and a number of Pierre Victoire classics on show.

Ian Fleming hasn’t been long out of the Glasgow scene, having sold the Buttery to Two Fat Ladies last year, but he too is making a return with the opening of Striped Bass, pictured, a seafood and champagne restaurant in the space occupied by Caffe Noir, and before that Hemingways, in Princes Square. Head chef is Ashley Gallant, previously of Culter Mill Restaurant and Shieldhill Castle by Biggar. Bookings on 0141 221 7800, www.striped bass.co.uk

Comments

1. susie H18 Mar 2008, 10:03am Report

rarely do I bother to comment on very much, I tend to let things go, but I ate at The Dogs the other night and it was simply the worst that I'm now compelled to. I had read an article in the Times that promised better and since I was visiting my home town having lived in London the past 5 years I thought to try somewhere new. Now the writer did say that it was yeoman food (as if this is enough in itself) and I have eaten in the 'East end' establishments that he alluded to, that produce cunningly cooked dishes that you would find hard to replicate at home and I can tell you that The Dogs fails on every front to be likened to these places. There simply wasn't any intelligent kitchen technique, counter points of carrot stockade, there was no uniting balance of ingredients, it was merely boiled awful food that embarrassed. Be warned that this restaurant tries to emulate those great eateries of East London but The Dogs is a fraud and the writer of the article clearly needs to have a greater knowledge of food before laying false claims. There, I bothered but only because I had to warn others. Yours Susie

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