Top chefs on their favourite St Andrew’s Day food
Featuring Victoria Henderson, Calum Richardson, Mike Small, Joe Malik and Ruaraidh Skinner
As Scots wonder what to put on their plates in honour of St Andrew, a set of our nation’s foodies tell David Pollock what works best for them
Victoria Henderson – Head chef, Mono, Glasgow
Vegan haggis, neeps and tatties
For vegan haggis you really are unlimited as to what vegetables you put in. Mushrooms are good as they give it a nice depth and texture, with pulses, oats, onions and seasonings, served with sautéed kale and a sauce of wholegrain mustard, whisky, vegan cream, white pepper and a splash of lemon juice. It holds up well against the meat version, there are lots of different flavours going on instead of just the meat and spice of regular haggis.
Calum Richardson – Owner and chef, The Bay Fish & Chips, Stonehaven
Roasted shellfish platter
If I was to choose something other than haddock and chips, I’d go for roasted shellfish platter. Mussels, hand-dived scallops, razor clams, haddock from Peterhead, all sourced locally in Scotland from sustainable produce, which we have an abundance of. The master of that dish is Roy Brett at Ondine in Edinburgh, I think. I’d serve it with a bottle of Sancerre.
Mike Small – Project director, Fife Diet
I’d avoid at all costs the classical Scottish dishes and go for something Russian but which is grown in abundance in Scotland. Beetroot is my favourite food of this season and it’s a good antioxidant so it’s good for you as well. There are various recipes for borscht, but most involve potato to thicken it up, and I’d add yoghurt, sugar and celery. Served with a shot of vodka if you’re having a boozy St Andrew’s Day.
Joe Malik – Owner and head chef, The Percy, Edinburgh
Stornoway black pudding sushi
I first made this when I was at Safari Lounge, and now I’ve brought it to my new place in Leith, The Percy. It’s just seaweed, sushi rice and Stornoway black pudding cooked off in rosemary and garlic, with a little cinnamon in the rice. No wasabi with it, because you want to get those Scottish flavours. It’s a fun special that I put on every so often, but you have to be quick because it only keeps for two days.
Ruaraidh Skinner – Head chef, The Vintage, Edinburgh
Ballotine of hare
Hare is well in season around St Andrew’s Day, and it’s a good-quality and underused bit of meat. Scotland’s got great game, of course, but that’s often forgotten in favour of things like haggis. I take the saddle of the hare, stuff it with Stornoway black pudding and wrap it in pancetta, then poach for 45 minutes and finish it off in the pan. Served with mashed potato and Williams’ Nollaig Christmas beer, which has the tangerine flavour of Douglas fir.