Restaurant review: Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill
Emphasis on local quality food sourcing and friendly staff set venue apart
It’s rare for an out-of-town celebrity chef to dip their toe into Glasgow’s restaurant scene – even if they are just a figurehead. David Kirkwood samples the latest big name in town
It’s 15 years since he left the kitchen, but Marco Pierre White is still a culinary name that gets a reaction. Now the great man (via one of his franchise businesses) has put his name to the Indigo Hotel’s restaurant. Photos of MPW (brooding, reclining, brandishing knives) adorn every free bit of wall as hotel reception merges into dining room. On the menu, meanwhile, a ‘Best of British’ sharing platter is a rugged spread of cured ham, potted duck and Glamorgan (cheese) sausage – lots of big flavours and textures. It’s a good quality, if pricey, start. Other notable dishes include a ‘Wheeler’s of St James’ fish pie where hake and salmon vie with sweet little prawns in a cheesy, salty sauce; and a signature trifle dish with a toasted crust of pistachios and almonds. Bizarrely for a grill, there are only four steaks on offer – all ‘Campbell’s Gold Cut’. It’s this greater emphasis on sourcing that might set the place apart (the staff also do that – they’re lovely). There’s definitely a broader range of clientele than under the venue’s previous incarnation, and if, as planned, greater autonomy and locality is allowed, this could become the destination restaurant it aims to be.