West End eaterie Delizique re-invents itself
- Allan Brown
- 17 February 2012
Snacks, desserts and gourmet pizzas on offer at the Hyndland street deli
There’s one guaranteed way to get the proprietors of delicatessens snapping their grissini in fury – and that’s to open a branch of Waitrose nearby. The upscale chain acts like Kryptonite on proximate independent operations, its economies of scale meaning there’s nobody it can’t undercut on gorgeous little snacky things and ethically sourced plovers’ eggs.
Such has been the fate of Delizique. Since 2001 the chi-chi deli on Hyndland Street was first port of call whenever westenders developed an itch only nibbed pistachios could scratch. Then, in 2009, Waitrose opened on Byres Road and overnight the business of shifting Yuzu marmalade became a whole lot stickier.
The response, eventually, has been to scale down the operation’s retail side and to reclaim the space for a sit-in café/pizzeria. A gorgeous and snacky pizzeria, of course: you don’t get toppings of Majorcan spreading chorizo at Domino’s. Decoratively, there’s a mock al fresco feel with rustic furniture and a sturdy olive tree slap in the middle of the room.
Mhairi Taylor has taken the menu of her ever-popular Cafezique next door and rejigged it for those requiring a quicker or a more modest experience. There’s a lengthy inventory of nibbles to start, priced averagely around £3 – mini sausage rolls with degrees from Oxbridge, hummus, pâtés and ‘crudities with lemony crème fraiche’. There’s also a range of breakfast items – pancakes and croissants baked in the busy open kitchen – plus the deli’s own sourdough bread and open boards of cheeses and meats. Desserts are the deli’s selection of cakes, scones, tarts, meringues and pastries.
But the pizzas are the main event. The style here is small and concentrated. They’re £7 to eat in (£6 to take away) and they’re not much bigger than a seven-inch single. But they’re loaded with with the kinds of intense, well-bred flavours in which the Zique marque specialises, most notably the Italian sausage and fennel and the puttanesca, better known as a pasta dish incorporating anchovies, olives and capers. Sadly the plovers’s eggs pizza don’t yet feature. But those can only be a matter of time.
70-72 Hyndland Street, Glasgow G11 5PT
0141 339 2000
Mon–Wed 9am–6.30pm; Thu–Sat 9am–9.30pm
Ave. price two-course meal: £10
+ The surprising compatibility of pizza and popcorn.
- Without a drinks licence (for now).