Curry institution Khushi's re-opens in new location in Edinburgh
- Donald Reid
- 6 January 2012
When Khushi’s was engulfed in fire just before Christmas 2008, you might have been forgiven for speculating if it had flown just a bit too close to the sun. In a few years the restaurant had shifted from being an old-fashioned curry café on Drummond Street to opulent glamour in three-storey Victoria Street. Yet they filled the place, serving well-constructed, appealing curries at low prices. The three-year hiatus following the fire was resolved last year when the sons of founder Khushi Mohammed opened both Mithas as the city’s only avowedly fine-dining Indian restaurant, then relaunched Khushi’s in December. It’s in a new location, close to the Playhouse, and markedly less ostentatious than Victoria Street, with less space, lots of upbeat colours, funky styling and lighting, and a familiar menu. Much of it is very well judged, from the mix’n’match brass globes overhead to food that includes charred tandoori lamb chops marinated in honey and fresh chilli, creamy and soft Goan-style fish curry, and very respectable veggie dishes including delicate tawa paneer. There are also some intriguing fresh juices and lassis if you don’t BYOB, though, as before, this is free and one of the reasons large groups beat a path to the door.