The latest incarnation of Richard Muir's seafood restaurant has its own pros and cons
Café Fish has shifted from Leith to Stockbridge with most of its style, staff and seafood-led menu intact. Donald Reid visited the reincarnation
Despite its relative success since opening in 2009 beside The Plumed Horse in Leith, Café Fish upped sticks earlier this summer and moved into the former Zanzero site in Stockbridge. Hoping to bring the restaurant to the notice of a larger audience, owner Richard Muir also acknowledges the challenges of the location, a former bank, where he has reinstated Art Deco features, brought the kitchen pass into the restaurant and created a slightly stark feel thanks to high windows, lowered lights, white walls and aluminium tables. That aside, there’s a lot of the original formula in evidence, with chef Stuart Lynch’s short but energetic set-price dinner menu offering often boldly flavoured and complex dishes such as chilli potted shrimps, confit octopus with a caper-studded parsley salad or roast cod with vanilla spiked borlotti beans. Notable features of the new venue are the west-facing deck outside for al fresco drinks and snacks, a broader wine list, and a little extra space to accommodate the increased rate of walk-ins that the stroll down from the New Town will surely deliver.
+ The best bits of a good fish restaurant still going strong
- Too many shades of grey in the interior
15 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge, Edinburgh EH3 6SX
0131 225 4431
Ave. price two-course meal: £22 (lunch/dinner)