Glasgow's An Lochan has heaps of wintry and Scottish comforters

Lemon tart

Restaurant review

It’s November and the comfort menus are here. Andrea Pearson visits a cockle-warming new partnership in Broomhill

This season, winter heartiness is what you get at An Lochan. The restaurant is not a new feature of the West End, but new to the premises are the team from Blas (pron. blass, from the Gaelic for flavour), formerly at Kelvingrove. In essence the relaunched restaurant is a merger of the two operations, with An Lochan’s smart looks and livery retained. The Blas team have brought aspects of their Scottish menu to this fish restaurant to serve an appealing range of contemporary dishes.

The menu has heaps of wintry and Scottish comforters: Stornoway black pudding and roast potatoes; slow roast shoulder of lamb; savoy cabbage with Dunsyre Blue risotto; smoked haddock mornay with mash; hot brownie and sticky toffee pudding. This is exactly what the season requires.

The An Lochan Cullen skink may not have the indulgent creaminess of some modern renditions of the classic but it makes up for that in its generous portion and its hunks of smoked haddock and potato. This could be a meal in itself. Another starter of a chicken liver paté has a delightful pear and walnut chutney alongside. But there is better to follow. A Thai-style hake and baby langoustine curry – described rather bizarrely as Asian broth with chilli ginger and coriander – is fresh, spicy and an absolute winner. The langoustine could be a little firmer and the teensy dod of rice is not enough for the serving but these are small quibbles in a near-perfect dish. The monkfish stew is tasty but the tomato and chorizo dominate leaving the delicate monkfish a little overpowered.

A selection of blow-torched winter puds keep the warmth coming, which is a bit of a surprise – the menu’s lemon tart turns out to be a caramelised meringue pie. But what the hey? It’s a good time of year to be toasting things.

An Lochan
340 Crow Road, Broomhill, Glasgow, 0141 338 6606
Food served Tue–Thu noon–9pm; Fri–Sun noon–10pm. Closed Mon.
Ave. price two-course meal: £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Post a comment