Bia Bistrot showcases impressive dynamic influences and innovation

Bia Bistrot showcases impressive dynamic influences and innovation

Restaurant review

A bit of Irish, a bit of French, a bit of Spanish and a good dose of local Scottish. Carine Seitz visits a new restaurant that’s proof of the dynamic influences at work in Edinburgh’s dining scene

Roisin and Matthias Llorente, the husband and wife team behind Bia Bistrot, have quite a culinary pedigree, having between them notched up time in the kitchens of Irish star chefs Niall McKenna and Derry Clarke, as well as a bloke called Gordon Ramsay. Their ethos of fresh-seasonal-local-sustainable-homemade may sound predictable, but done as well as this it’s clear they’re not just paying lip service to a gastronomic trend. Expect to see high calibre suppliers on the menu, with game from Braehead, seafood from Eddie’s in nearby Marchmont and an impressive wine list selected from Villeneuve.

A starter of roast beef bone marrow is served bubbling hot in the bone, while Gressingham duck liver melts in the mouth – and having one of the lead chefs bring the food to the table is a nice touch. For mains, a tasty rump of lamb is served with well-seasoned layered potatoes and spiced aubergine, and coley fillet comes with a generous amount of samphire grass. Desserts continue the good impressions: gooey chocolate cake is deeply cocoa flavoured, with grilled peach soup a lighter option. An excellent beginning for this new kid on the block – long may it continue.

+ Sound provenance and skilled cooking
- Crampons and climbing ropes out for a visit to the toilets

Bia Bistrot
19 Colinton Road, Southside, 0131 452 8453,
Tue–Sat noon–3pm, 5pm–10pm; Sun 11.30am–4pm. Closed Mon
Ave. price two-course meal: £9 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)