Restaurant review - pickledgreen

A rosy future

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Restaurant review - pickledgreen

Is the natural home for a clean-looking and clean-thinking new café-restaurant really the capital’s once-notorious drinking strip? Donald Reid takes a look at Rose Street’s newest arrival, pickledgreen

Rose Street is a right hotch-potch when it comes to its eating and drinking scene: from bland chain restaurants to venerable old boozers, unadorned Japanese noodle-bars to buzzy seafood bistros. Into this unlikely setting, and fired with the optimism and energy of youth, owners Steve Brown and Melchior Colmant have set up pickledgreen. Exuding ethical attitude, their green principles go well beyond good sourcing into the use of wood offcuts in the design and working with the Cyrenians charity to manage waste. At first sight it’s a bright, light café with a long, blond wooden communal table dominating the ground floor space alongside fridges offering freshly prepared sandwiches and salads for takeaway. The sit-in menu begins with a range of snacky items including a crab and lemon tart, a mini bowl of soup and ‘toasts’ with toppings such as ham hock and lentils. More substantial options with a clear seasonal theme, such as caramelised parsnip tarte tatin with chestnuts or sticky oxtail with mash, beetroot and apples, follow. It’s Rose Street, Jim, but not as we know it.

+ Food that’s as bold as it is right-on
- Upstairs bistro area feels a little detached

158 Rose Street, New Town, Edinburgh, 0131 220 0477, www.pickledgreen.co.uk,
Sun–Thu 8am–7pm; Fri/Sat 8am–11pm.
Two-course meal average £7.50 lunch/£15

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