Take Three: The three ages of fish restaurant
11 Exchange Place, Glasgow, 0141 248 4055, roganoglasgow.com
Fitted out in art deco style in homage to the Clyde-built Queen Mary in 1935. It looks expensive and by golly it is. Amid the walnut veneer and polished silver, choose fish bisque, lobster thermidor or sole meunière. For those who want glamour without the financial pain, the pre-theatre is a fraction of the price.
11 Roseneath Street, Marchmont, Edinburgh, 0131 229 7953, sweetmelindas.co.uk
It may be further from the sea than Leith’s well-established array of seafood bistros, but then again Eddie’s fishmongers is right next door. Now 12 years old, this homely neighbourhood restaurant serves imaginative and confident fish dishes and their rich chocolate tart comes highly recommended.
1114 Argyle Street, Glasgow 0141 334 6127, crabshakk.com
A Tardis-like space covering three floors, the West End should welcome the addition of an informal, neighbourhood space that offers the very best in Scottish seafood at sensible prices. Oysters and champagne or beer and chowder – the menu is versatile, local, fresh and well priced.