The Fountain

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

It’s possible to see both sides of The Fountain in one visit. Mobbed to the rafters ahead of a rugby match, the punters quickly siphon off as kick-off approaches, giving you the chance to take in your quirky surroundings. The fascination with clog-like footwear is one thing; the vibrant green ladder beside the bar is another. Despite the crowds, service is swift and attentive. A special spot on the calendar, such as St Patrick’s Day, will inspire the chef to concoct a special menu, but there’s a fine variety on their regular selection, with starters of beetroot-cured salmon and chicken liver and pancetta pâté augmented by mains such as braised shin of beef pie and a green bean and asparagus salad. A tasty banoffee pie and hearty sticky toffee pudding might be worth a shout if you have any space left.

• High point: Latte served in a chunky retro-glass rather than a tall insipid affair
• Low point: Can get super busy