San Romano

This May 2012 arrival has an atmosphere of restrained elegance created by ornate mirrors and candlesticks and enhanced by seating in sleek dark leather booths. There’s a bar area with a tapas menu that can also supplement the offerings in the adjoining restaurant. A diverse menu offers unusual takes on traditional cuisine and complements the ambience: modern Italian cooking in a modern setting. Delicately poached salmon is drizzled with just enough fennel and balanced with mascarpone, while the bean stew is refined yet rustic enough to satisfy. The clams and crab spaghetti comes with chilli and parsley subtly enticing the flavour from the Scottish seafood; roast pork belly is flavoursome, satisfyingly crispy and seasoned with rosemary and black pepper with light spring greens complementing the richness of the meat. Dessert proves the highlight of an enjoyable meal – a delicious combination of perfectly poached pear with smooth pistachio ice-cream retaining a lightness that never overpowers the fruit. With prompt but unaffected service, it is a promising start that undoubtedly provides something different – which could see it becoming a favourite with city centre diners.