- Telephone 0131 556 9696
- Opening times Mon–Sat 8am–8pm; Sun 9am–6pm (shop).
- Food served Mon–Wed 9am–6pm; Thu–Sat 9am–5.30pm & 6.30–9.45pm; Sun 9am–5.30pm.
- Average price £13 (lunch); £21 (evening meal)
- Website www.earthy.co.uk
This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.
Earthy: the name itself reeks of honest-to-goodness wholesomeness and this charmingly decorated Canonmills restaurant certainly delivers on that promise. The place feels rather like a Womble has been brought in to decorate, with found objects and mismatched furniture creating a cosy, intimate atmosphere. The provenance of the food also embodies the Earthy name, with high-quality produce tagged with ‘seasonal’, ‘local’ and ‘foraged’ throughout the appealing menu and individual suppliers thanked in person at the end. A deft hand in the kitchen turns all that worthiness into something more refined than your usual groovy café, however. The menu changes with the season, naturally, but starters might include ravioli of foraged wild garlic and chestnut mushrooms or a Scottish crab and lemon risotto. For mains, a fillet of hake baked in Indian spices arrives still sizzling in its pan, while an escalope of Peelham Farm veal with sage, mozzarella and Parma ham does much to showcase this rediscovered (and ethical) meat. With desserts including rhubarb meringue tarte tatin and an enthusiastic wine list, it all adds up to a hugely promising experience. However the weak link is the service, which at times comes across as unfriendly and bored. If, and when, the principles behind Earthy – warm, local, caring – are echoed front of house staff the place can be exceptional.
- High point: The provenance of the food, then deftly made delicious
- Low point: When the service is less engaged than the food
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 6
- Provides: Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Wheelchair access, Outdoor tables
- Music on stereo: Contemporary laidback pop
- Capacity: 65
- Largest group: 15
- Open since: May 2012
- House wine: £15.50 per bottle
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Both Earthy Canonmills and The Gardener’s Cottage share a resolute focus on finding the best seasonal and local ingredients and then treating them as lightly as possible, along the way blazing a path for produce-led, accessible cooking. Is this the…
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