Timberyard

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Formerly of the well-regarded Atrium, the Radford family has converted a cavernous old timber yard into a warm, beautifully designed space, the industrial edges softened by clever use of wood, natural fabrics and light. A short, simply written menu based on carefully sourced local ingredients is divided into four sections – bite, small, large and sweet – the first being tiny teasers of the delights to follow. Chef Ben Radford displays both accomplished cooking skills and a well-trained palate: hazelnuts make a perfect pairing with raw venison, while the sweet notes of apple and earthy Jerusalem artichoke enliven some faultlessly cooked hand-dived scallops. A moist pheasant breast is enhanced with thyme, and an oak-smoked steak is a novel, robustly flavoured dish. Attention is paid to the details, too, in the form of complimentary filtered tap water, quality bread and delicious whipped butter. The innovative cocktail list features some home-made cordials, which can be enjoyed in the indoor or outside bar areas. This is the place to come for a unique dining experience, at once sophisticated, contemporary and relaxed.

• High point: Great food in a stunning venue
• Low point: Too few good days to make use of the outside bar