Le Bistro Beaumartin

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Glasgow’s newest French restaurant celebrated its first anniversary in March 2013, and has already established itself as a firm favourite with many. Run by Frenchman Richard Dupupet, veteran of several Paris bistros, together with head chef Andrew Stott, le Bistro Beaumartin is an independent with real strength of personality that prides itself on marrying the spoils of Scotland’s natural larder to authentic Gallic cooking techniques. There are plenty of cosy quirks in the mismatched chairs, black-and-white photos on the walls and wood-burning stove crackling in the corner, although the long, high-ceilinged space is a little awkward to fully convey the stylish-yet-homely feel. Salads, in starter and main portions, include an exquisite endive and roquefort combination with diced ham, cherry tomatoes and a mustard vinaigrette. The confit duck is served as a kind of pie, with heavily seasoned shreds of off-the-bone bird nestling beneath a fluffy layer of herb crushed potatoes. You won’t taste many better desserts than their dark chocolate and cherry tartlet, its rich textures complemented by a drizzle of milky crème anglaise. With dishes that good, this place deserves to become an institution.

• High point: Intimate welcome and service
• Low point: Oversized premises