Steak

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

After launching in 2012, Steak has settled into its stride, delivering its red meat extravaganza to an enthusiastic audience. It’s all here: a trio of breeds, all Scottish, served on or off the bone, in (standard) 200g all the way up to (Man vs Food) 850g weights. Add chips (heavily salted) and a green leaf salad (sublime) and it’s enough of a meal for most. But Steak doesn’t stop there. Like buying a BMW, once you’ve accessorised your basic meal with a starter like the excellent smoked ham and duck terrine with sweet daubs of marmalade, and a playful dessert of popcorn sundae (better than it sounds), the bill soon mounts. If you really want to push the hoof out, so to speak, there’s a head-to-toe tasting menu, six courses that change often. For even more theatre in a setting that’s pretty OTT already, the big guns like Chateaubriand or Cote de Boeuf can be carved at your table, to share. Yes, there are salads, and some seafood too, but really, why would you?

• High point: Here, truly, is the beef
• Low point: Rushed ‘steak for beginners’ lesson