Rocca Bar and Grill

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2012 edition.

Original cornicing, subdued lighting and white linen napkins, not to mention the view over the 18th green of the venerable Old Course, contribute to the sophistication of this champagne bar and restaurant set in one of the town's well known hotels. While still owned and run by Macdonald hotels, Rusacks has handed over complete control of the food and drink element to the former owners of Rocpool in Inverness and thus comes with quite a pedigree. Welsh-born chef Scott Davies brings international experience and his menu aims high both with pricing and intent. Dishes such as pigeon with a porcini ravioli or Scottish lamb with loin, belly and shoulder impress. There is also a separate vegetarian menu. Service is discreet and knowledgeable. Comfortable armless chairs, candles and flowers complete the sumptuous feel. There is a small but eclectic selection of wines with a choice of 14 champagnes and sparkling wines. Downstairs the more relaxed One Under gastro pub offers a variety of simpler dishes, some with a local flavour.

• High point: Inventive cooking
• Low point: Cannot see the 18th green in winter

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A classy and comfortable dining room, not to mention the view over the 18th green of the venerable Old Course, declare the sophistication of this champagne bar and restaurant. Scott Davies' menu aims high both with pricing and intent, with dishes such as pigeon with a porcini ravioli or Scottish lamb with loin, belly and shoulder impressing. Downstairs the more relaxed One Under gastro pub offers a variety of simpler dishes, some with a local flavour.