- Telephone 0131 226 3500
- Opening times Wed–Sat noon–2pm, 6–10pm; Sun noon–2pm. Closed Mon/Tue.
- Food served Tue–Sat noon–2pm, 6.30–11.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon
- Average price £22 (lunch); £21.95 (set evening meal)
- Website www.purslanerestaurant.co.uk
This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.
Purslane’s chef and owner Paul Gunning is justifiably proud of the petits fours made by chocolatier Sebastian Kobelt: the intensely flavoured hand-dipped chocolates are emblematic of the high-quality contemporary food served here. Gunning’s ambition is to create a fine-dining experience without the formality or the cost, so linen tablecloths are dispensed with but the amuse bouche is not. The cooking is clever and assured: the heart stopping richness of foie gras roulade is countered by quince chutney and smoked duck, and where simplicity works best – such as in a dressed crab – restraint is shown. Roasted guinea fowl is a fine example of how to bring out the flavour and retain succulence in a game bird. A piece of hake is studded with salty bursts of caviar and herby beurre blanc. The short pudding menu features more Kobelt chocolate creations and perhaps a crème brûlée or pithivier. The restaurant is stylishly decorated with textured wallpaper and painted plant motifs, but it’s an intimate space with room for just over 20 diners, so booking is advised.
- High point: Fantastic cooking without a hefty price tag
- Low point: Not much natural light
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 18
- Provides: Children's portions, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: Mellow easy-listening.
- Capacity: 22
- Largest group: 24
- Open since: 2011
- House wine: £15.95 per bottle
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