Masala Twist

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

The twist, perhaps, is the nods to traditional Scottish dishes which sneak into the menu of this otherwise modern Indian joint – haggis pakora and mince and tatties curry stand out from the traditional curryhouse offerings. Handily placed for the university, there are two floors decorated in bright, cheerful colours, with tightly packed tables given brisk service. A large menu offers starters – Jaipuri samosa, with chunky spiced vegetables in a sweetly tart sauce tucked into pastry, is just the right size – then tandoori, vegetarian, regional or ‘taste of India’ selections, as well as a nicely priced lunchtime buffet or a Thali sampler banquet. From the Punjab, murgh tak-a-tak is a stimulating mixture of not-too-spicy chicken strips with peppers and onions, while a Goan fish curry tempers pieces of monkfish with curried coconut for a mild dish. Standard accompaniments are available, and while Masala Twist isn’t breaking any boundaries, it does what it aims to do very well.

• High point: Scottish tablet ice-cream is a refreshing dessert change
• Low point: A little cramped downstairs