Punjabi Charing Cross

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

You can tell this was once a pub, with its traditional banquette seating and tables – not to mention the incongruous shelf of history books (the owner picks up unused stock from nearby Mitchell Library). This recent spin-off from the long-established Southside restaurant has a friendly, relaxed atmosphere and a menu offering a range of North Indian staples. A delicious sea bass on mash starter is the perfect size, tinged with herbs, while Punjabi mussels (available Thu–Sun) are an unusual spiced twist on the dish. In mains, the Goanese curry is a creamy, intense dish flavoured with coconut and chillies, while the crispy salon has fried chicken or lamb in batter, drenched in a sweet-and-sour sauce. Naan breads are among the biggest in town, while the chef's special rice is a huge portion cooked with vegetables. Of special note to cash-strapped parents is the rather generous offer to feed children under-ten for free – when accompanied by a paying adult, of course.

• High point: Good value offers
• Low point: Only open for lunch Thu/Fri