Strada

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Although there is a corporate feel to Strada’s clean lines and functional décor, the spectacular view of Edinburgh Castle from its outdoor tables is surely a one-off. And when it comes to the food, quality is a notch above the standard fare served up by most national chains. Although hampered by its position in a street with limited passing traffic, Strada has acquired a regular following, and it is easy to see why. Even in staples such as bruschetta, the quality of the ingredients raises the dish beyond standard fare, while a funghi polenta underlines Strada’s attempts to be different, with a finely balanced combination of mushrooms sautéed in garlic cream and served with grilled polenta. Mains also stand out: risotto studded with pumpkin, pancetta and spinach, and a well-worked version of fegato (liver served with crispy pancetta in a sage butter sauce) being fine examples. Winning desserts include affogato – a chunk of iced nougat served with semi-freddo ice-cream and an espresso to be added by the diner – which also surpasses the norm.

• High point: Top-notch food for a national chain
• Low point: Unable to shake off the corporate feel