The Suburban Pantry

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

It looks an unlikely location for a restaurant, pitched at the end of a row of shops on a very busy arterial road, but having been in business for a couple of years now, the owners of the Suburban Pantry have clearly made it work. The interior is bright and stylish, with blond wood furniture and shelves of interesting deli items. Opening for breakfast and lunch ensures steady trade throughout the day, but it really comes to life on weekend evenings, when they open for dinner and the place buzzes with local regulars who clearly feel attached to the place. The evening menu offers mussels in a creamy thyme-infused broth followed by steak cooked just as you like it, served with chips and rocket salad. A delicious veggie risotto features butternut squash, beetroot and creamy goat’s cheese, the finished result a pretty pink colour. Desserts are comforting staples like crumble and crème brûlée. Weekend brunches are also a big draw, with pancakes, eggs Benedict and kedgeree among the alternatives to the traditional fry-up. With a welcoming atmosphere and top-notch cooking, this is neighbourhood bistro dining done as it should be.

• High point: Classy cooking in an unexpected setting
• Low point: Bland artwork on the walls