The Honours

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

‘To do the honours of a table gracefully, is one of the outlines of a well-bred man.’ So says the rare 18th-century text from which Martin Wishart’s second Edinburgh venture takes its name, and both he and head chef Paul Tamburrini do the table proud, both in terms of its accoutrements and what they then serve upon it. Cuts less favoured (but no less tasty), like pig’s head, ox cheeks and rabbit leg, dominate a menu that adheres to the traditions of French cuisine but remains modern and approachable, complemented by a surprisingly affordable wine list. Pitched as a much less formal alternative to its sister restaurant in Leith, there’s still an air of ceremony and touch of theatre about proceedings. While many of the well-heeled clientele will feel right at home in this environment, those ‘dining up’ as a treat might feel a little overawed, even if the staff are as impressively warm as the softly lit, gold and black interior. But it’s the food that ultimately demands most attention here, two things in particular standing out: technique, and the time taken over each plate. Flavours are subtle and delicate, sauces are glossy and consistent, presentation is elegant and considered. This isn’t fine dining, but it’s not far off.

• High point: Setting the standard for brasserie dining in Edinburgh
• Low point: Still retains an element of formality that might put off more casual diners