La Brava

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

It’s of very little surprise to find this small local restaurant packed out whatever time you visit. Over the last three years, owners Aris and Rico have built a reputation that would make them the envy of many city centre Italians. Having begun life as a deli, demand saw a shift towards a causal, refined restaurant, with the deli playing its part during the day. La Brava is small, but this only adds to its atmosphere. The focus is on small tapas-style dishes, so whatever you fancy there is plenty to choose from, with a vast array of options that can make ordering a time-consuming process. Every plate is worth the wait. The seafood in the risotto is so fresh it feels as though it was landed just minutes before being cooked, and the light tomato sauce still provides a sharp chilli kick. A tender minute steak is served tightly rolled and packed with herbs, while pasta dishes vary in styles and a shortlist of specials changes every few weeks to keep regulars contented. And, in this restaurant that doesn’t take itself too seriously, there’s a range of customisable sundaes to round off the meal with a bit of fun.

• High point: Super fresh seafood risotto
• Low point: Not booking could lead to disappointment