The Corinthian Club

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

This multi-level eating, drinking and gambling emporium is one of the G1 group’s flagship enterprises, with attention paid to creating a dazzling venue. The main dining room is astonishing; everything is on a huge scale, from the enormous glazed dome and wildly ornate plasterwork to the massive seats and A3 size menus. Beyond the façade, however, there’s an effective down-to-earthness. The waiting staff are friendly and the menu mixes splurge options of lobster, steak and oysters with standard bistro fare such as pasta and fish and chips. Lobster bisque is a thrifty way to enjoy the high life: although rather thin in consistency, its flavour has a good balance, and it’s enhanced with aioli and decent bread. Among the mains, the steak burger stands out as particularly well executed – a hearty beef patty cooked on the grill. And the Asian coleslaw adds a welcome crunch. A crisp-skinned chicken breast on mixed mushrooms and spinach with a rich smoked paprika sauce is also a good choice. Desserts are less adventurous, with cheesecake, crème brulee and chocolate fondant among the few options.

• High point: Swanky setting
• Low point: Pedestrian puds