Esperante

The brilliantly lit, Hockneyesque mural of a sun-drenched vineyard fills one side of the bar of this opulent, top-end eaterie. There are two intimate balcony tables which overlook the huge atrium of this vast hotel where a piano is played non stop throughout the evening. The main seating area continues the sophisticated atmosphere: huge polished wine glasses, immaculate linen and large tables. The restaurant is out to impress. Savoy trained restaurant manager Gabriel Herrera is new in the job but has great plans to develop the Mediterranean theme into the food. He has helped to choose a new chef who will work with him to build a reputation based on sound ingredients but with a southern European and international flair to suit the cosmopolitan clientele of this Fairmont operation. The signs are there already, with unsalted butter gracing the table and some good purchasing evident, notably the scallops and veal. With a background based in quality training combined with a sympathetic chef and management, Esperante holds the potential to become an exciting contemporary venue for high end dining.

• High point: Grand surroundings
• Low point: Echoing piano

Listed in The Larder – in the shops now or buy online.

The brilliantly lit, Hockneyesque mural of a sun-drenched vineyard fills one side of the bar of this opulent, top-end eaterie. The main seating area is out to impress: huge polished wine glasses, immaculate linen and large tables. The restaurant is aiming to build a reputation based on sound ingredients but with a southern European and international flair to suit the cosmopolitan clientele of this Fairmont operation.