The Melville

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Reopened in February 2013 after a substantial refurbishment, the Melville Bar has been transformed from traditional boozer into a modern space with the tired surroundings replaced by clean, slick décor and candlelit tables. The attempt to appeal to a broader audience is evidently succeeding, with a range of ages and characters attracted by an impressive list of cocktails, wines and beers. And, while drinks still account for most of the business, food is now a big draw. Input from a renowned executive chef is reflected in a menu that is well-executed to create elegant dishes that are several notches above pub grub. Soup of the day is delivered in a jug and served at the table, while for mains, an assiette of pork or chicken stuffed with a tarragon mouse underlines the skill in the kitchen. Desserts also display ambition, exemplified by poached pear accompanied by olive oil and pistachio cake.

• High point: Buzzing atmosphere and excellent food
• Low point: No separate dining area