Criterion

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2012 edition.

Half old traditional Partick café, half hipster hangout, The Criterion is slightly more bar-oriented than its next door neighbour and sister establishment Velvet Elvis. But it's just as eccentric in terms of fixtures and fittings, with its shelves bearing old typewriters and radios and its menus masquerading as Penguin books. High wooden booths line one wall, for cosy chats, while the bar is ideally placed for propping up against on a stool. During the week it shares the same menu as Velvet Elvis, but on the weekend it offers its own basic selection, mostly pub favourites like pizzas and burgers. The 'Famous Criterion fish supper' is a hefty wodge of fairly bland fish, served with thick hand-cut chips that also accompany the ribeye steak – it would be better with thin frites, and it's a smallish piece of meat for the price. Glazed chicken wing starters are greasy and chewy, but fresh mussels are served in a piquant wine and garlic sauce. Desserts are limited, but a fruit crumble is sugary sweet which doesn't offset its ice-cream on the side. Weekend nights can be busy.

• High point: Packed with character
• Low point: Disappointing sides