Bo'Vine Meats and Wines

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Despite the beefy name, this atmospheric offshoot of the Hilton Hotel has developed some delicate and subtle touches of late. With foodie flourishes such as pickled cherries, crowdie snow, chicory marmalade, citrus jelly and avocado sorbet sprinkled around the menu, it’s obvious that a touch of culinary theatre is going on as well. But it’s not all eye-candy. West coast scallop with pork belly and parmesan purée is a beautifully balanced starter with mild and creamy shellfish blending agreeably with poached meat. Star of the show is of course the grill menu where lamb and properly matured Aberdeen Angus steaks are treated with respect and style. A juicy chargrilled ribeye is given sparkle by adding a complex, fiery peppercorn sauce while pan-fried chicken breast comes sliced on a mound of vibrant ham hock in rich sweetcorn purée. A fine selection of sides and sauces including bone marrow gravy and truffled macaroni keep the sophistication intact while an energetic service team who know their extensive wine list help foster a cosy ambience amid deep purple drapes, cream walls and warm moody lighting.

• High point: Creative fine dining in dreamy surroundings
• Low point: Route to toilet breaks the spell