Suruchi Too

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2012 edition.

Sitting directly opposite the Festival Theatre, Suruchi will always attract late-night diners and pre-theatre bargain hunters. The real challenge is to inspire regulars in this highly competitive neck of the woods. The owners seem alive to criticism of a rather tired atmosphere and plan a major refresh of both the interior and the food. It would be a shame if they threw the baby out with the bathwater, though, as the menu contains some gems that are well worth keeping. Soup is a rare find on an Indian menu, but based on the rich, complex and spicy fish soup here it should be included far more often. Venison Maharajha is inspired by a recipe once reserved for India's kings: loaded with spice and red wine it makes a dynamic Scotia-Indian fusion. Not all dishes are so successful – the salmon tikka is perfectly cooked, but it cries out for bolder spicing and the Navaratan koftas are far too sweet both in filling and the accompanying mild sauce. Down in Leith Suruchi Too tends to enjoy a calmer pace and offers an opportunity to engage with themed events through the year.