Restaurant Mark Greenaway

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Famed for his television appearances on the Great British Menu, in 2012 Mark Greenaway relocated his restaurant to a new city-centre venue. There are grand plans afoot but for now the stylish and muted interior plays second fiddle to the main star here – the food. Greenaway’s contemporary style concentrates on employing modern cooking techniques to create exceptional dishes from the best seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. This is perfectly demonstrated by dishes like sous-vide Goosnargh duck breast and duck leg croquettes, elevated by watermelon and tarragon jus, or a variety of tender cuts in ‘a tasting of Borders lamb’. Knowledgeable staff are happy to advise on appropriate wine choices and you can even venture down to the cellar to make your selection. Mark claims that his main strength is his desserts, which is certainly evident in his peanut caramel cheesecake, a heavenly combination of shortbread, toffee sauce, roasted peanuts and iced parfait. The market menu promises the same outstanding quality at a very reasonable price.

• High point: A menu that cannot be faulted
• Low point: Can be difficult to get a table