Malmaison Brasserie

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

With only the odd model ship hinting at its original function as a seaman's mission (and thankfully nothing to indicate another past incarnation as a house of ill-repute), the Mal instead exudes a distinctly Parisian feel, dressed in rich, dark hues and accessorised with elegant wooden slatted blinds. That Gallic influence is evident in the menu too, marrying some British and occasional Asian input into a mix of modern and classic dishes which work, on the whole. Those offerings that don’t quite click are down to what’s not on the plate, rather than what is. Filo tart with squash, candied golden beets and herb crème fraîche deserves some salty goat’s cheese for a counterbalance of taste and texture. Supreme and leg of chicken, soused in cider and roasted Normandy-style, is moist and agreeably infused with the apples’ acidity, but let down by a miserly accompaniment of stuffing and little else. On the other hand, char-grilled squid with chorizo, black olive, lime and chilli is well balanced, while the lobster burger is a triumph, a fresh mango salsa and lime hollandaise providing tang in contrast to the rich, sweet flesh.

• High point: A lobster option makes for a true 'gourmet' burger experience…
• Low point: …Even so, £20 is a bit steep for what is still just a burger