The Dining Room

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

The aroma of whisky permeates this elegant ground-floor restaurant set within a Georgian townhouse. As befits the dining room of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society a carefully selected complimentary dram is presented to those eating from the a la carte menu. Unlike the bar upstairs, the restaurant is open to the public, and it has the atmosphere of a house party filled with characters dreamt up by Alexander McCall Smith. High-quality Scottish ingredients form the backbone of chef James Freeman’s fine-dining cuisine. Flavours range from delicate – a starter of smoked haddock tartare – to big and bold in the form of braised beef cheek. The main courses are intricate dishes of artfully presented seasonal fare rather than exercises in button-straining gluttony, however the subtle flavour of John Dory is almost overwhelmed by its accompanying curry velouté. There’s a lot of creativity on display here, such as a pairing of duck breast with liquorice, or the buttermilk foam that accompanies a pudding of rhubarb jelly. While there’s an air of quiet formality to the place, the waiters ensure the welcome is as warming as the whisky.

• High point: Complimentary whisky is a nice touch
• Low point: Decor could do with an update