Malmaison

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

While its name and menu might be nominally inspired by our cousins across the Channel, the brasserie at the Glasgow branch of boutique hotel chain Malmaison’s stock-in-trade is essentially upscale British gastronomy with French flourishes. Down a spiral staircase in the vaulted-ceilinged bowels of a former Episcopal church, the low-lit restaurant’s burgundy and dark-wood colour scheme, leather-upholstered benches and quasi-gothic adornments speak to old-fashioned class with 21st-century pizazz. Not everyone’s taste, but a sophisticated-yet-unpretentious and seasonally changing menu does cater for most preferences. Beef fillet carpaccio – wafer thin raw meat with parmesan, watercress and mustard – is a starter that has to be done right, and Malmaison’s chefs know it. The half Normandy chicken coq au vin is tender, flavoursome, and complemented by shallots and celeriac purée, though the pancetta is low key. A side-serving – charged separately – is necessary to supplement most mains, but one between two will do; try the sauté potatoes with caramelized onion and reblonchon cheese. Among an appealing dessert selection, the Mal hot chocolate – basically an ice-cream sundae with marshmallows, served in a coffee cup – is a simple twist on a familiar favourite.

• High point: Wallet-friendly prix-fixe menu available all times except Saturday night
• Low point: Service can be slow