Heights

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2011 edition.

Rising above the noise and activity of the Grassmarket, Heights, true to its name, takes advantage of one of the best castle views in Edinburgh. Located at the top of the Apex International Hotel, and supported by its business traveller clientele, this dinner-only restaurant has lofty aspirations. The modern, elongated, open-plan space is simply decorated and wall-to-wall windows allow castle views from every table. A less than sensitive lighting scheme does slightly obscure the view though, which can undermine this wonderful setting. The ambitious menu draws its ingredients from all corners of Scotland, from traditional potted hock with melba toast to a creamy Arbroath-smoked haddock risotto. But the delivery often stumbles. The seared scallops are tender but the Rannoch smoked duck is slightly dry and flat. The Scottish ribeye steak is done exactly to order, but the pork belly is incredibly fatty, leaving pools of grease lingering. Heights simply needs greater focus on delivery and quality control throughout to fulfil its potential, which could be impressive indeed.

• High point: Potentially good view of the castle
• Low point: Patchy quality hinders good intentions