The Birdcage

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Hidden away in an unprepossessing area of Musselburgh is the impressively restored collection of Victorian buildings at Eskmills. The Birdcage is housed in an Egyptian-style administrative building for what was once a cotton and rope manufacturer. At the front is a large domed bar area where live music is sometimes performed; the restaurant is through the back in a French-inspired glass extension overlooking a floodlit courtyard. In the drier months, with outside tables alongside geometric pools in the central piazza, surrounded by the grand mill buildings, the place has a very European feel. The menu offers dishes mainly based on local produce with occasional global such as a charcuterie board or tempura prawn cocktail for starters. For the mains there’s a selection of pastas, steaks, fajitas and specials including various fish dishes and a lightly curried chicken supreme. A popular choice on Sundays is the roast dinners that come with all the trimmings – maybe not as good as your mum’s but better than a carvery. The brief list of desserts features a cheesecake of the moment and old favourites such as steamed treacle pudding.

• High point: Beautifully restored building with lots of outdoor space
• Low point: Out-of-the-way location