The Spice Pavilion
- Telephone 0131 467 5506
- Food served Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 5–11pm.
- Average price £8.95 (set lunch); £19 (evening meal)
- Website www.thespicepavilion.co.uk
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This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.
Having navigated the vertiginous steps, the rich red walls, exposed brickwork, warm wooden floors and even warmer greeting of the Spice Pavilion await. Cristina Khan greets each guest by name, and does everything in her power to ensure that you will want for nothing. The sense here is one of sophistication – which is just as true of the menu, where even well-known classics reveal previously unexpected depth and complexity. A starter of samosa is far from the usual deep-fried excess, and a much more measured creation of mildly spiced fresh vegetables in crisp pastry, arriving with a selection of chutneys. Alternatively, the salmon puri is a sticky, earthily spiced burst of heat nicely offset with a dash of lemon. Mains of Bombay chana masala, with its sweet and sour combination of chickpeas and syrupy gingery sauce, or murgh seylonse, its soft velvety sauce masking a surprisingly fiery heat, are almost outshone by a side of sag aloo – an explosion of citrus, spice, salt and dry heat. Desserts are mainly bought in, so try the exceptions in the form of home-made pistachio kulfi or gulab jamun.
- High point: All the comforts of home cooking with added finesse
- Low point: Too refined an experience to roll into after a few pints
- Number of wines sold by the glass: 3
- Private dining: Up to 24 covers
- Provides: Vegetarian options (at least ¼ main courses), Children's portions, Children's high chairs, Free wi-fi
- Music on stereo: Classical instrumental Indian
- Capacity: 48
- Largest group: 24
- Open since: April 2010
- House wine: £13.95 per bottle
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