Elià

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

From the owner and the staff, to the olive oil from the family vineyards, Elia’s unaffected charm lies in an unashamed celebration of family roots. Combining the unfussed approach of a traditional Greek taverna with Scottish produce to create an understated yet enjoyable experience; meat and fish are sourced weekly from local markets so daily specials are worth coming back for. Kleftiko lamb falls from the bone exactly as it should and, although some accompaniments don’t maintain this high standard, the roast potatoes are delicately scented with thyme. Desserts include galektoboureko – an unusual filo pastry flan with sweet syrup and cinnamon – a welcome break from the clichéd baklava or honey and yoghurt option. An expansive dining area is excellently serviced by approachable and well-informed staff whose personal touch is never forced. Owner George Ieronymidis is often found dining in the restaurant in the evening, stopping to chat to diners about his genuine passion for food. Though the atmosphere could be more engaging, ditching the smashed plates and Zorba bouzukis while offering an uncomplicated menu using quality ingredients provides a reliable choice for spontaneous City Centre dining.

• High point: Knowledgeable and friendly staff get service just right
• Low point: Sauces don’t hit the heights of the meat