Leith Lynx

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2012 edition.

Since taking over Leith Lynx in July 2011 new owner and chef John Winnik has overhauled the menu and modernised the cooking. The dishes make good use of seasonal ingredients sourced locally – as a result the menu changes constantly and offers plenty of game and shellfish. Starters such as grilled halloumi or duck spring rolls are prettily presented and packed with contrasting yet complementary tastes and textures. Well executed mains see delicate roasted quails teamed with a robust haggis mash, the richness balanced by green grapes; char-grilled guinea fowl is moist and full of flavour, the skin crisp and well-seasoned. The puddings, such as warm Spanish-style doughnuts or fromage blanc with hazelnut meringues, show the same level of care and skill in preparation. Keep an eye out for the roast dinners at the weekend, sometimes available for just £5. It’s also a particularly good place for people with special dietary requirements, as a lot of the food is gluten-free including the sausages and haggis made specially by Findlay’s of Portobello.

• High point: The hot donuts
• Low point: Not the liveliest location