Athena Greek Taverna

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

As a result of ongoing building work, Athena has temporarily moved from its West End home to the City Centre, which has led to an increased popularity at lunchtime, such is the abundance of offices in their new environ, and the £5 express lunch deal is remarkably good value. A minor criticism would be that it does feel slightly restrained and corporate now – the predominantly white décor, the speed at which courses arrive. But it’s a transitional year for the restaurant and this is easily overlooked. The big, recognisable traits of traditional Greek cooking are definitely there: lamb in the kleftico that falls off the bone in long, juicy shreds; the aromatic stifado where each mouthful ends with the lingering richness of beef and red wine; glossy-crunchy-sugary-nutty baklava to finish things off. Mains come with both rice and potato, and are generous too. Throw in the sharing platter, where one can try perfectly agreeable dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), keftedes (meatballs) and a selection of dips, and you have a place where Greek cooking is very accessible.

• High point: Massive portions
• Low point: Wee bit tame