The New Pakistani Café

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2012 edition.

A dimly lit café that manages to be unfussy and quirky at the same time, the New Pakistani Café sells tasty food in generous portions. Though predominantly a takeaway, there is plenty of seating and atmosphere to make dining in an enjoyable experience. Celebrating its national identity boldly in its décor, the Pakistani flag is created with lights on the back wall, photographs of the country and its people hang throughout and a flat screen television plays Bollywood and traditional south Asian music. Although the menu offers European-style curries, it seems silly to seek out this restaurant for such fare. For a more authentic flavour of Pakistan, opt for a karahi dish, which the waiter simply describes as 'spicier'. Most meat dishes are served on the bone, and Lahori chicken karai is hot with chilli, and pieces of ginger the size of pineapple chunks. Gobi gosht, made with lamb and cauliflower, is milder than the chicken, with coriander prevailing. The café is as popular with solo diners as with groups gathering for a casual meal.

• High point: Generous main courses
• Low point: Pakora could be lighter