Balbir's Saffron Lounge

The 2013 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2013) edition.

Balbir Sumal is very much part of the city’s curry story. Today, the Saffron Lounge is the cheeky wee brother in Balbir’s family with a more relaxed approach to dining than its sister restaurant in Church Street. Sure, it can serve trademark Balbir’s starters such as succulent tandoori salmon and the crisp and fresh bhel puri, but that’s not the point. This place will tailor your food to your liking. A good starting point for a conversation is the tasting menu for two, a selection of unusual starters and signature mains served in mini portions. Swap the chicken for something with spinach. Or how about a butter paneer instead? Chickpeas would be good with that. You get the idea. This unusual flexibility comes from the knowledge that every ingredient is scrutinised at source and, most crucially, some of the most talented kitchen staff are at the helm. The dishes are far lighter on oil than your average curryhouse, and the texture and flavour combinations are always spot on.

• High point: Superb cooking
• Low point: Not many lagers to choose from